Asias Best Sommelier Della Tang, of Shenzhens Ensue, on her meteoric rise in the wine industry
On top of that, getting an opportunity to manage a beverage programme at a high-profile restaurant fresh out of school and without any wine-buying or management experience is almost unheard of.
Yet it’s one thing to land a dream job and another to consistently exceed all expectations while growing into the role through hard work, intelligence, taking calculated risks and charisma.
When we sit down to talk to Tang in person, we can’t help but be charmed by her confident yet humble demeanour, and surprised by her choice of bottle for the blind tasting we had agreed to do while we chat.
It’s a Feel Good Savagnin by Burgundy’s natural-wine star Frederic Cossard, made after the poor harvest of 2016, when he lost most of his own grapes to a terrible frost and had to use ones sourced by a friend in Jura – the legendary Jean-François Ganevat.Not quite the bottle you would expect from a sommelier whose wine list leans heavily into classic Burgundy, Champagne and California’s Napa. But like any talented person, Tang is full of surprises.
Did you have any self doubt when you were put in charge of the wine list at Ensue?
“When I joined Ensue, I was originally tasked with building the wine programme alongside another co-head sommelier.“While I knew that my previous work experience had equipped me with some relevant skills, I also recognised that this was a massive undertaking that I couldn’t accomplish independently.
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“Unfortunately, my co-head sommelier didn’t show up, and I found myself having to take on the role alone. I felt a sense of panic before the first service of our soft opening, but thanks to some encouragement from my colleagues and a few deep breaths, I was able to enter ‘work mode’ and give it my all.
“In the end, the wine programme was a success, and I felt a sense of self-validation that motivated me to keep pushing forward.”
What skills were crucial for your success at Ensue?
“Working as a sommelier at Ensue is similar to working at any other high-end restaurant around the world. The key qualities that are required include being highly observant, providing attentive service and possessing excellent communication skills.”
What is the most challenging part of your role?
“As a group sommelier at Ensue, I am responsible for managing the wine programmes of four outlets with varying concepts, each operating independently. This means that the wine selections for each outlet are unique, so I spend a significant amount of time each month on purchasing and maintaining wine lists for each location.How a French champagne master’s ‘balanced’ sake is winning over Japan
“Additionally, I oversee the planning and execution of monthly wine events across all outlets, which serve to promote not only our restaurant but also wine culture in Shenzhen.
“While managing these outlets can be challenging, I enjoy the opportunity to cross the city and experience the different locations in person.”
Any word of advice for young women in the wine industry?
“To young women in the wine industry, my advice is to stay confident in your skills and knowledge, and to seek out mentors who can support you in your career development. Most importantly, believe in yourself.”
What’s your approach to food and beverage pairings?
“Creating a successful pairing involves understanding not just the food and beverage, but also your guest’s personal preferences. That’s why we don’t have printed wine pairings at Ensue, because we want to keep it fluid and tailor each serving to the individual.
“For adventurous guests, we might suggest a fun natural wine or even a beer or sake as part of the pairing. For guests with strong preferences, we’ll work within their limits to create a pairing that suits their tastes.”
A wine list can only be as interesting as the guests it’s made for. What changes do you hope to see in China’s drinking culture?
“I believe that there is great potential for wine consumption to grow in China, and I would like to see more guests develop an interest in wine and start choosing it as a regular part of their meal.“By doing so, they can discover the many wine styles and flavours that complement different types of cuisine, and enhance their overall dining experience.”
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